At least once a week J will ask me one of the follow questions:
"How are you doing?"
"How are you feeling?"
"Are you happy?"
"Do you like being in Riyadh?”
It’s sweet he asks. He knows this has been a sacrifice. I think we’ve acclimated quite well. We've got a good crew of people we hang out with. The Gents have made us quite popular here so we’re always interacting with people when we’re out. After our workout and dinner, we eat Oreos or chocolate and just talk. It's nice. And my writing helps, making me reflect and appreciate things.
For me, to a degree, this is a humbling experience. J jokes that most places we go I’m the expert because I’ve traveled quite a bit, but this is the first time where he’s much more knowledgeable. I’m not working yet so I have to depend on him for money. I have to rely on someone to drive me, everywhere. I have to be covered when I leave the DQ. My rights are different and I’m expected to conduct myself a certain way. And I don't speak Arabic.
I think back to our arrival. As we were preparing to land in Riyadh I got my abaya out of my carry-on. Yes, women have to wear it entering the country. Fortunately one of our friends, who’s been to Riyadh a number of times, gifted me one when we found out that J was being assigned here. J had asked me about it several times during the pack out and trip.
"You didn’t pack your abaya in UAB or HHE, right?"
While living at the hotel, “Is your abaya is here?"
Packing my carry-on, "You have your abaya in your bag?"
On the plane from Frankfurt, “Where is your abaya?”
I’m not exaggerating. I suppose it’s nice that someone is looking out for me, even if it sometimes makes me feel like an irresponsible teenager.
I step off the plane, draped in my abaya, hair covered with my hijab as well. Even though J told me I didn’t have to wear the hijab, I thought it was the culturally appropriate thing to do. It was kind of weird though. I felt like I was wearing a culturally insensitive costume. Steps off the jetway, he asks me if I’m OK. He must have sensed what I was feeling. I replied “Yep” even though I just wanted to get out of the airport and get get to our new home.
We were greeted by one of the many lovely drivers from the US embassy. A gentleman of smaller height and thin frame, with a wide welcoming smile, dressed in a nice blue suit and tie. It was 21:45 and hot so I was impressed that he was dressed so well at that time of day. Awkwardly, I didn’t know what to do and took his lead. He addressed me with a kind hello and head nod. When we entered the diplomatic customs line I could feel the eyes drawing in on me, from custom officers and military. I diverted my eyes to the boys and J, then to other women, observing what they were wearing or how they were interacting.
After making it through customs, one of J’s colleagues met us at baggage. He is the epitome of IDGAF, dressed in shorts and a t-shirt. Men are expected to wear long pants in public. He greets me with a firm handshake. We chat about the trip, Wally, the boys, his experience in Riyadh, where else he's lived. It was nice to have another American man around who I didn’t have to think twice about my interactions.
This juxtaposition of interactions and observations in the few minutes after arriving is basically what everyday is like here. We are fortunate to live on the DQ, literally next door to our fellow Americans, and have a number of familiar conveniences readily available to us. I walk Wally in shorts and a t-shirt and will wear a bikini at the Embassy pool without a care. But as soon as we pull off the DQ, I’m in another world where I have to think about my actions and make sure I’m covered. As much as I don't like wearing an abaya, I appreciate having the balance though. If we never left the DQ it would be a really boring and sheltered experience here. Why would someone go to the other side of the world for that??
So to go back to J’s questions – yes, generally speaking, I’m good and I’m happy. That answer often comes with caveats though, giving context to whatever I might be feeling that day. I've been warned that people go through all sorts of mood stages while at posts and at six months I may hit the low. Something to watch out for. I know I'm fortunate to have the time to reflect and really lucky I have a husband who is kind enough to ask, talk with me and is always looking out for me.